March
Holi
Kumaoni Holi is unlike any other — it begins weeks early, not with colour but with music. Through the cold tail of winter, singers gather of an evening for Baithki Holi, building slowly toward the colour of the final days.
All festivalsHoli
/ ho·lee /होली
the festival of colour — in Kumaon, as much a season of song as of colour.
Long before the colours come out, Kumaon's Holi is sung. From Basant Panchami onward, men gather in homes and courtyards for Baithki Holi — classical, raga-based Holi songs sung sitting down, growing livelier as spring approaches. Closer to the day, Khari Holi takes to the lanes: groups moving house to house, singing standing, drumming on the dhol and hurka.
Then comes the colour — gulal and water, laughter and feasting, the whole village out together. It's a long, warm, musical run-up to spring, and one of the most sociable times to be in the hills.
Baithki Holi
Weeks of raga-based Holi songs sung sitting down, evening after evening.
Khari Holi
Standing songs through the lanes, drummed on dhol and hurka.
Colour & feasting
Gulal, sweets and the whole village out together on the day.
